Landmannalaugar czyli trekking w islandzkich górach
Odkąd zobaczyłam zdjęcia z Landmannalaugar wiedziałam, że muszę się tam udać. Interior, tak inny od turystycznego południa brzmiał niesamowicie kusząco. Cała trasa z Landmannalaugar do Thorsmorku to 55 km. Z założenia hiking trwa cztery dni. 4 dni 55 km jak więc się przygotowywać i co spakować?
Przygotowanie fizyczne i psychiczne do trekkingu w Landmannalaugar
W okresie letnim zaczęłam biegać plus w ramach wolnego udawałam się na krótsze hikingi. Jednak nie mogę powiedzieć, że jestem wyjadaczem w dziedzinie wędrówek, można wręcz powiedzieć., że jestem póki co świeżakiem w tej dziedzinie, więc cała długość trasy, do przebycia z ciężkim plecakiem, trochę mnie przerażała. Komfort psychiczny został trochę zachwiany, jak go poprawić? Najbardziej pomogła mi rozmowa z osobami, które mają doświadczenie w tego typie wędrówkach. Tutaj bardzo chciałam podziękować Marzenie za wszelkie porady i wsparcie.
Przed trekkingiem polecam sprawdzić pogodę, mimo że jest ona zmienna w tych rejonach i nieco nieprzewidywalna. Wyruszając w interior warto zarejestrować się na stronie safe.is, po rejestracji dostaniemy @ i smsa odnośnie zmian pogody.
Co potrzebujemy na Landmannalaugar?
Oczywiście istotny jest odpowiedni plecak z pasem biodrowym, to właśnie on będzie Ci towarzyszył przez te 55 km. Kolejną ważną rzeczą jest odpowiedni namiot, powinien on być lekki, wodoodporny i solidny. Obowiązkowo odpowiednia mata, która zapewni nam izolację od ziemi oraz śpiwór. Oczywiście buty trekkingowe, wodoodporna kurtka oraz spodnie, rękawiczki, warto też zabrać pelerynę która ochroni nas przed deszczem, warto także zabrać buty do pokonywania rzeki lub sandały, przydatne też mogą się okazać kijki hikingowe ( ja ich nie miałam ale pomogą one nam utrzymać równowagę podczas pokonywania rzek), przyda się także odzież termiczna- polecam tą z wełny merino, dobre skarpetki, menażka, czołówka, palnik plus gaz, butelka na wodę
Z żywności zabrałam ze sobą tuńczyka, kaszę kus kus, batony proteinowe, bakalie, na pierwszy dzień trochę owoców oraz skyr (islandzki jogurt).
Warto także wiedzieć że na trasie nie ma śmietników, tylko w jednej chatce po drodze jest miejsce gdzie można wyrzucić śmieci. Czy warto brać aparat? Sama o zabrałam, mimo wszystko przyznam że czasem nie chciało mi się zdejmować plecaka by o wyjąć i robiłam zdjęcia telefonem. Mimo wszystko należy pamiętać że jest to rejon w którym każde miejsce z chęcią by się sfotografowało…
Jak się dostać do Landmannalauar?
Można stopem, można wynająć auto, koniecznie offroadowe. Pamiętajmy jednak, że do pokonania mamy kilka rzek. Więc podróż autostopem może być nieco trudniejsza przez to że samochody muszą spełniać odpowiednie kryteria aby przejechać przez ten region. Można także udać się offroadowym autobusem. I tak robię też ja. Cena z miejscowości Leirubakki to 4900 ISK. Jest to miejscowość do której udało mi się dojechać stopem bez problemu. Rozkład autobusów oraz ceny możemy sprawdzić na tej stronie https://www.nat.is/dostępność od połowy czerwca do połowy września.
Trasa Landmannalaugar
Sam trekking podzielony jest na cztery części. Dzień pierwszy Landmannalaugar-Hrafntinnusker (12km) , dzień drugi Hrafntinnusker – Alftavatn (12 km), dzień trzeci- Alftavatn – Emstrur (16 km), dzień czwarty- Emstrur – Thorsmork (15 km).
Sam hiking pokonuje jednak w dwa dni. Dlaczego? Przede wszystkim pogoda mnie do tego zmusiła. Dwa pierwsze dni faktycznie warto ze sobą połączyć, gdyż jeżeli tego nie zrobimy będziemy musieli prawdopodobnie spać na śniegu. Pierwsza chatka nie jest także zbyt dobra. Malutki pokoik do ogrzania, nie ma także miejsca na gotowanie, ani żadnych udogodnień.
Pierwsza część trasy jest niezwykle malownicza, jeśli mamy więcej czasu myślę, że warto nocować w Landmannalauar czyli na samym początku trasy, znajdują się tam hotpoty i duży camping. Ale powracając do hikingu na początku czeka nas dość sporo drogi na wzniesieniu , jednak piękne kolorowe góry wynagrodzą nam trudy wspinaczki, wszędzie pełno gorących źródeł oraz pary. Widoki są naprawdę przepiękne. Nidy nie widziałam takich kolorów gór! Pogoda pogarszała się niestety z minuty na minutę i ze słonecznego dnia przerodziła się w gromki deszcz.
Hrafntinnusker
Pokonując dolinę trafiamy w końcu do krainy śniegu, dalsza część trasy biegnie w pobliżu lodowca. Widoczność była słaba, zaczyna padać deszcz z śniegiem . Ostatnie 1,5 km to spacer po lodowcu. Gdy docieram do pierwszej chatki jestem mokra, wymęczona oraz nieziemsko głodna. Nie ma tutaj jednak miejsca żeby coś ugotować a pokój w którym można się ogrzać jest pełny. Zdejmuje plecak i jem tuńczyka prosto z puszki stojąc na deszczu. Nic nie smakowało mi tak bardzo od dawna. Pytam rangera o pogodę, niestety okazuje się, że deszcz ma padać ciągle. W końcu udaje mi się dostać do małego pokoju, gdzie można się ogrzać, miejsca brak wszyscy stoją ściśnięci jak sardynki w puszcze, a mimo to jest tak przyjemnie, przynajmniej nie pada i nie wieje. Chatka położona jest wysoko, dostrzegam kilka namiotów rozbitych w śród skał i śniegu.
Decydujemy się kontynuować trekking do kolejnej chatki, a więc kolejne 12 km do przebycia. Średni czas przebycia tej trasy to 4-5 godzin. Deszcz przybiera na sile. Teraz z kolei wysokość zmniejsza się o 490 m. Co oznacza spacer w dół, brodząc w błocie. Trasa mimo wszystko jest przepiękna. Pod koniec tego odcinka czeka nas rzeka jednak nie jest ona głęboka. Lodowata woda przynosi ulgę zmęczonym stopom, chatka także powinna być niedługo.
Alfavatn
Docieramy nad jezioro Alfavatn. Niestety wiatr przybiera na sile i bardzo ciężko jest rozbić namiot. Wszyscy kładą kamienie aby ich namioty nie zostały porwane prze wiatr. Sama chatka w Alfavatn jest najlepszą podczas całej trasy.
Jest tu restauracja, mała suszarnia niestety przepełniona i trochę zbyt chłodna, bardzo przyjazny ranger, a także chatka z kuchnią co prawda tylko dla osób które ją wynajmują mi jednak udało się tam przyrządzić posiłek. Restauracja pęka w szwach. Największym problemem były mokre buty jednak ranger uratował nam życie i wysuszył nasze przemoczone buty. Noc była ciężka nieustanny wiatr i deszcz przeszkadza w śnie.
Z rana czeka nas miła niespodzianka. Brak wiatru, deszcze i nawet słońce. Na początku trzeciego odcinka czeka nas rzeka. Jest dość głęboka mniej więcej do kolona. Poziom rzek jest jednak zmienny o czym warto pamiętać. Samo przejście idzie łatwo, ja pokonuje ją w klapkach z racji nieposiadania sandałów na Islandii. Kilka km dalej czeka nas kolejna rzeka. głębsza tutaj mniej więcej przy moim wzroście 164 cm sięgała mi do połowy uda. Rzeka jest szersza i bardziej rwąca. Tu tracę jednego klapka. Ponoć ta część trasy jest najtrudniejsza, chociaż dla mnie pierwszy dzień był zdecydowanie gorszy. Dalsza część trasy wiedzie przez czarną pustynię. Widoki są trochę monotonne, jednak jest coś w nich intrygującego.
Emstrur
Docieramy do kolejnej chatki pogoda niestety pogarsza się i wita nas gromki deszcz. Jem kuskusa ciesząc się chwilą odpoczynku. Pytamy o pogodę. Ma się poprawić, ale na jutro jest bardzo niepewna. Nie ma sensu rozbijać namiotu podczas deszczu. Postanawiamy pokonać kolejny odcinek jeszcze tego samego dnia. 15 km, a szacowany czas przejścia to 6-7 godzin.
W drodze do Thorsmorku
Podczas tego odcinka wysokość zmniejsza się o 300 m. Pogoda poprawia się i wita nas słońce.
Pod koniec odcinka czeka nas ostatnia rzeka. Nazywa się Þröngá i jej pokonania do końca życia nie zapomnę. Bardzo szeroka, a także bardzo rwąca. Zmęczone po całodziennym chodzeniu próbujemy wybrać najodpowiedniejsze miejsce do jej pokonania co jest trudne. Próbujemy i tutaj Magda żegna się ze swoim klapkiem. Widzę strach w jej oczach i próbuje sama przejść przez tą rzekę. Patrzę w dół na nurt i mam wrażenie że wszystko wiruje, kręci mi się w głowie, sama się boje. Wieje przeraźliwy wiatr, tracę równowagę już mylę że zaraz i ja popłynę z jej nurtem gdy udaje mi się odzyskać balans. Nurt jest silny i czuje jak mnie popycha. Zmęczona padam na brzeg i z radością stwierdzam żadnych więcej rzek podczas tej trasy!
Ostatnie 30 minut wiedzie przez las co jest miłą odmianą otoczenia. Idziemy powoli, wykończone, a gdy docieramy do campingu Volcano huts, jesteśmy w niebie. Szybkie rozbicie namiotu, prysznic, ciepły posiłek, a potem długi sen. Budzimy się późno, a wita nas słońce. Pogoda jest piękna rozkładam na trawie wszystkie mokre rzeczy, czytam Żar Rosiaka i ciesze się jednym z piękniejszych dni islandzkiego lata.
Tutaj przeczytasz moje inne wpisy o Islandii
980 komentarzy
Też odkąd zobaczyłam zdjęcia z tego szlaku wiem, że koniecznie chce tam być! To mój plan na najbliższy czas 🙂 Cudowne zdjęcia!
My sobie obiecaliśmy, że właśnie na ten trekking kiedyś wrócimy! Landmannalaugar jest przepiękne, żałujemy że byliśmy tam tak króciutko. Aczkolwiek warto było i na chwilę tam pojechać 🙂
Wow! Pierwszy raz słyszę o tym miejscu! Jestem zachwycona! 🙂
Niestety podczas pobytu na Islandii nie byłam w tej części wyspy, ale patrząc na zdjęcia zaczynam się zastanawiać, czy nie wybrać raz jeszcze tego kierunku 🙂
Piękne zdjęcia i niezapomniana wyprawa. Wrócę do tego wpisu niebawem, bo sama chętnie bym się wybrała na taką wędrówkę.Pozdrowienia!
Bardzo szczegółowo i fajnie opisane. Zdjęcia ciekawe. Jak bym wybierała się do tego kraju i na tego typu wyprawę to pewnie było by to dla mnie przydatne. Zapraszam też do mnie malgorzata86-fotografie.blogspot.com
Islandia jest piękna i bliska naturze ? Zazdroszczę podróży!
Super zdjecia. Trasa wydaje sie taka malownicza….zazdroszcze wycieczki ? choc pewnie mialabym milion pecherzy
Niesamowite są te góry! To moje marzenie!!!
Ale pięknie!
Marzy mi się Islandia, zapisuje twojego bloga i na pewno wrócę po wskazówki, jak tylko będę znała datę podróży 🙂
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